I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the additional
chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
link would be located. So my questions are: Has anyone used one of these
links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass? Are
there any problems associated with the connecting links?
Thanks and good winds….. Rich
02
Sep
Anchor chain
posted by admin in Uncategorized and have Comments (10)
10 Responses to “Anchor chain”
"Kangaroo" <kanga…@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:ReycnelWIbj-6vHdUSdV9g@ptd.net…
> link would be located. So my questions are: Has anyone used one of these
> links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
> there any problems associated with the connecting links?
I think these links were once called ‘LassLinks’ (sp?). Nowadays more
commonly referred to as connecting links.
Several problems with your plan.
You are correct that they are rated at the same strength as the equivelent
"Proof Coil" chain. The lower grade of anchor chain. I have always had
reservations about that claim. Chain loading in the real world of anchoring
is seldom under the ideal conditions that load test are performed. I just
don’t believe they will articulate with the mating links as well as an
ordinary link. (just my opinion).
If your windlass has a gypsy for 5/16" Proof Coil then the link should work
ok, but most are for HT or BBB chain.
I’m not sure I understand how you are going to attach this second anchor. It
sounds like your attaching it in tandom with, in the middle of the chain.
You will have a problem finding a shackle that will pass through any links
in the standing part of the chain. And even if you do, you shouldn’t do this
with the connecting link since it will cause a side pull on the link and
open the joint. Or uneven load on the link.
–
My opinion and experience. FWIW
Steve
s/v Good Intentions
The second anchor would be on its own rode………Thanks again
Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
doing this.
FWIW
Doug
s/v Callista
"Kangaroo" <kanga…@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:ReycnelWIbj-6vHdUSdV9g@ptd.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
> am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
> connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
> there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
additional
> chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
> the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
> the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
> was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
> link would be located. So my questions are: Has anyone used one of these
> links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
Are
> there any problems associated with the connecting links?
> Thanks and good winds….. Rich
In light to moderate (<10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a few
seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical catenary
shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain assumes its
preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and the
rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with
minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for maneuvering
in anything more than that is asking for trouble – I’ve usually used the engine
when setting two anchors.
My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the purpose
of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not splice in
some 9/16 nylon? – even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to haul in
the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I appreciate
that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc.
"Doug Dotson" <ddotsonNOS…@cablespeed.com> wrote in message
news:106p64lsa1gtv68@corp.supernews.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
> calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
> doing this.
> FWIW
> Doug
> s/v Callista
> "Kangaroo" <kanga…@ptd.net> wrote in message
> news:ReycnelWIbj-6vHdUSdV9g@ptd.net…
> > I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass. I
> > am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I purchased a
> > connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When joined
> > there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
> additional
> > chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain drop
> > the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If ever
> > the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
> > was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
> > link would be located. So my questions are: Has anyone used one of these
> > links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
> Are
> > there any problems associated with the connecting links?
> > Thanks and good winds….. Rich
We use all chain for our primary, and rope/chain for the second
anchor. Having all chain for both just adds too much weight in the
bow. Priamry is a Bruce and secondary is a CQR. We used an
aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.
Doug
s/v Callista
"Jeff Morris" <jef…@nospam-at-all-sv-loki.com> wrote in message
news:1L2dnTUC6ZKMPfHdRVn-sQ@comcast.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> In light to moderate (<10 kts) wind I found I can run the windlass for a
few
> seconds to straighten the chain (that is, it will assume the mythical
catenary
> shape to the anchor), then the boat will glide forward as the chain
assumes its
> preferred orientation: roughly "L" shaped with a vertical off the bow and
the
> rest on the bottom. I repeat a few times, the bow is over the anchor with
> minimal stress on the windlass. I agree that using the windlass for
maneuvering
> in anything more than that is asking for trouble – I’ve usually used the
engine
> when setting two anchors.
> My real issue with this is that adding 100 feet of chain solely for the
purpose
> of extending the rode to set a Bahamian Moor seems a bit odd. Why not
splice in
> some 9/16 nylon? – even without a rope/chain gypsy, its fairly easy to
haul in
> the rope by hand. Of course, this is a whole other discussion, and I
appreciate
> that some sleep more soundly with a lot of chain, etc.
> "Doug Dotson" <ddotsonNOS…@cablespeed.com> wrote in message
> news:106p64lsa1gtv68@corp.supernews.com…
> > Pulling the boat using the windlass is a risky business except in the
> > calmest conditions. I know of 2 boats that have destroyed a windlass
> > doing this.
> > FWIW
> > Doug
> > s/v Callista
> > "Kangaroo" <kanga…@ptd.net> wrote in message
> > news:ReycnelWIbj-6vHdUSdV9g@ptd.net…
> > > I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans windlass.
I
> > > am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I
purchased a
> > > connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half. When
joined
> > > there are 4 pins that get peened over. The reason for adding the
> > additional
> > > chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the chain
drop
> > > the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward. If
ever
> > > the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100
feet, I
> > > was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the
connecting
> > > link would be located. So my questions are: Has anyone used one of
these
> > > links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my
windlass?
> > Are
> > > there any problems associated with the connecting links?
> > > Thanks and good winds….. Rich
>"Kangaroo" <kanga…@ptd.net> wrote in message
>news:ReycnelWIbj-6vHdUSdV9g@ptd.net…
>> link would be located. So my questions are: Has anyone used one of these
>> links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my windlass?
>Are
>> there any problems associated with the connecting links?
======================================================
In addition to the issues that Steve raised I’d be very concerned
about the long term durability of the connecting link after it had
passed through the windlass a number of times. If the link failed at
an inopportune time (and almost any time would be), you stand to lose
a lot more than the price of a replacement chain.
If your goal is just to temporarily let out more scope while you set a
second anchor, consider a rope to chain splice and a rope/chain
wildcat on your windlass if you don’t already have one. That would
solve the problem with a lot less weight and expense. Rope-chain
splices are fairly easy to make, and easy to inspect.
On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 18:33:16 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
<ddotsonNOS…@cablespeed.com> wrote:
>We used an
>aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
>were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.
==========================================
What kind of issues did you have with your spade? I have a 44# steel
spade which I regard as the best I’ve ever used. Perhaps the aluminum
makes it too light to set reliably?
I suspect that the light weight is the issue. Mine is a 30# aluminum.
Does not set in grass. Just flops over and drags on its side. Worked
really well in most other situations, but then again my Bruce does
just as well in those situations. Our CQR did better in grass
although I had to dive on it and get it started on occation as
well.
Doug
s/v Callista
"Wayne.B" <waynebatrecdotbo…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42sp60128ddnf16qciu9drg6c37r1glf3t@4ax.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 18:33:16 -0500, "Doug Dotson"
> <ddotsonNOS…@cablespeed.com> wrote:
> >We used an
> >aluminum Spade as our primary in the Bahamas last winter but
> >were less that happy with it. Going to keep it as a backup.
> ==========================================
> What kind of issues did you have with your spade? I have a 44# steel
> spade which I regard as the best I’ve ever used. Perhaps the aluminum
> makes it too light to set reliably?
Kangaroo <kanga…@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:ReycnelWIbj-6vHdUSdV9g@ptd.net…
> I currently have 100 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and a Lofrans
windlass. I
> am/was planning on adding an additional 100 feet of chain. I
purchased a
> connecting link that looks like a regular link cut in half.
When joined
> there are 4 pins that get peened over. So my questions are:
Has anyone used one of these
> links ( they are rated at 1900 lbs ) ? Will it go through my
windlass? Are
> there any problems associated with the connecting links?
I’ve used 80m (250ft) of chain for 8 yrs on a 10ton 40ft yacht.
It’s joined in two places by these links. They work fine over the
winch (originally a Lofrans, now a Horizon Express 1500w) with no
sign of wear compared to the regular links. I re-galvanise the
chain every four or five years and there’s no sign that the
galvanising wears off the rivets first.
This chain has been used twice in extreme conditions (2.5m waves,
45kts, 10m anchorage) with no damage to the links, but I do use
20 – 24ft of 20mm diameter nylon snubber line. The galvanised
hard eye of this snubber line was elongated on one of these
occasions.
> The reason for adding the additional
> chain is for setting a second anchor. I would back down on the
chain drop
> the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat
forward. If ever
> the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first
100 feet, I
> was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the
connecting
> link would be located.
Having blown one winch by overstressing it, I’d never risk
pulling the boat forward on a winch again. I always use engine,
and just take in the slack with the winch. I guess that’s what
you meant anyway!
I’ve never considered carrying spare chain to help dropping a
second anchor. Seems expensive and heavy. If I did, I guess I’d
add a rope tail. Instead:
If I’m mooring for a reversing current (one anchor astern, one
forward, both led to the bow) then I drop the big one with more
chain than I need, then load the other (it’s only got 20ft of
chain, then 200ft 18mm nylon) into a dinghy and paddle off down
stream and drop it from the dinghy.
If I’m mooring with two anchors splayed forward to reduce lateral
sheering, then I just motor round the first anchor, helm hard
away from it, til I can dump the kedge. Though sometimes I use
the dinghy.
JimB
"Kangaroo" <kanga…@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:ReycnelWIbj-6vHdUSdV9g@ptd.net…
> I would back down on the chain drop
> the second anchor and use the windlass to pull the boat forward.
It would be better to use the engine to pull yourself forward as most
windlasses state that they are intended to lift an anchor, not drag a boat
around. It would be a real pain to burn out the windlass motor at a
critical time.
> If ever
> the situation arose that I had to ride on more that the first 100 feet, I
> was planning on shackling on a small piece of chain where the connecting
> link would be located.
I am trying to picture the situation where you decide that you need more
than a 100 feet, and then trying to find that special link, get it
positioned where you can work on it and then shackle in the extra piece.
Let’s see, its the middle of the night and a rain squall blows in and your
anchor starts to drag. You get up to increase your scope. It’s dark and
raining, the boat is pitching in the chop. Dang, that one odd link is hard
to spot in the dark! All right, there it is, now get it far enough out of
the windlass to shackle around it but not so far that it is over the side
(don’t want to fall overboard!). Let out another 50 feet of chain. Dang,
anchor is still dragging, better haul the anchor in and reset. Careful,
can’t pull the shackle into the windlass!
I would think that you would be better off splicing in a length of rope.
Rod